Wednesday, 5 April 2017

Crocodile

I enjoyed making the crocodile hand puppet so much that here is a Amigurumi Crocodile 







If you have any question or corrections please let me know as I will greatly appreciate any feedback! Also if you do try out this pattern, please post a picture as I will love to see your recreations.

You will need:

  • 3mm crochet hook (Can use 4mm if preferred)
  • 2.5mm hook (not essential)
  • Yarn needle 
  • Yarn (approx 60g or 170m)
  • Soft toy filling

Stitches and abbreviations used:

(I am from England but use US crochet terms)
  • MC - Magic circle/ring (sc unless otherwise specified)
  • Ch - Chain 
  • SC - Single crochet 
  • Inc - Increase stitch (2 single crochets into one stitch)
  • Dec - Decrease stitch (single crochet 2 stitches together)
  • HDC - Half double crochet 
  • DC - Double crochet 
  • ST - Stitch 
  • FLO - Front loop only 
  • BLO - Back loop only 
  • PC - Popcorn stitch. This is generally done with 5dc however I used 3dc for the pc in this pattern
  • SLST - Slip stitch 
  • FO - finish off
Other things to note....

  • This is worked in continuous rounds. It is helpful to use a stitch marker to keep track
  • The number in ( ) at the end of each round indicates the total stitch count for that round
  • *  * indicates repeated series of stitches
  • Use invisible decreases for a neater finished product
  • Stitches in [ ]  are worked into one stitch


Main face and body:
Round 17
  1. MC (6)
  2. *Inc* (12)
  3. *1sc, inc* (18)
  4. 18sc (18)
  5. 18sc (18)
  6. 18sc (18)
  7. 18sc (18)
  8. *2sc, inc* (24)
  9. 24sc (24)
  10. 24sc (24)
  11. 24sc (24)
  12. 24sc (24)
  13. 24sc (24)
  14. 24sc (24)
  15. 24sc (24)
  16. *3sc, inc* (30) 
  17. FO the first one here and make the second, do not finish off the second one. Join both pieces together with 12sc through both pieces (12) 
  18. sc around the new outside edge - no more stitches will be added on top of round 17. Note that the start of the round where you place your stitch marker will differ greatly from where it was at the end of round 16 (36)
  19. 36sc (36)
  20. 36sc (36)
  21. 36sc (36)
  22. 36sc (36)
  23. 36sc (36)
  24. 36sc (36)
  25. *4sc, dec* (30)
  26. *3sc, dec* (24)
  27. *2sc, dec* (18)
  28. 18sc (18)
  29. *2sc, inc* (24) 
  30. 24sc (24)
  31. 24sc (24)
  32. *3sc, inc* (30)
  33. 30sc (30)
  34. 30sc (30)
  35. *4sc, inc* (36)
  36. 36sc (36)
  37. 36sc (36)
  38. 36sc (36)
  39. *8sc, inc* (40)
  40. 40sc (40)
  41. 40sc (40)
  42. 40sc (40)
  43. 40sc (40)
  44. 40sc (40)
  45. *9sc, inc* (44)
  46. 44sc (44)
  47. 44sc (44)
  48. 44sc (44)
  49. 44sc (44)
  50. 44sc (44)
  51. *9sc, dec* (40)
  52. 40sc (40)
  53. 40sc (40)
  54. *8sc, dec* (36)
  55. 36sc (36)
  56. *4sc, dec* (30)
  57. 30sc (30)
  58. 30sc (30)
  59. *3sc, dec* (24)
  60. 24sc (24)
  61. 24sc (24)
  62. *2sc, dec* (18)
  63. 18sc (18)
  64. 18sc (18)
  65. *4sc, dec* (15)
  66. 15sc (15)
  67. 15sc (15)
  68. 15sc (15)
  69. *3sc, dec* (12)
  70. 12sc (12)
  71. 12sc (12)
  72. 12sc (12)
  73. *2sc, dec* (9)
  74. 9sc (9)
  75. 9sc (9)
  76. 9sc (9)
  77. *1sc, dec* (6)
  78. FO and close hole. 
Spikes:
Using a smaller hook if available but not essential
Join yarn to piece, ch1. *2sc into one stitch space, [1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc] into the next stitch space* repeat this for the desired length. Slst to finish and hide yarn tails in body
For smaller spikes (used for the two side lines), add more distance (stitch spaces) between your stitches. 

Nostrils:
Using the same technique as the spikes but using sc only 

Legs x4:
  1. MC (6)
  2. *Inc* (12)
  3. *1sc, inc* (18)
  4. BLO - 5sc, pc, sc, pc, sc, pc, sc, pc, 6sc (18)
  5. sc skipping over the pc stitches from previous round (14)
  6. 3sc, dec x4, 3sc (10)
  7. 10sc (10)
  8. 10sc (10)
  9. 10sc (10)
  10. 10sc (10)
  11. 10sc (10)
  12. 10sc (10)
  13. FO, leaving long yarn tail to sew to body. 


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